Teaching Your Cat Not to Bite During Play

May 22nd, 2012

Your adorable cat or kitten likes to play with her favorite toys… your hands and fingers. What do you do? You discourage rough play and offer substitute toys instead. Here’s how:

  • Have playtime with your cat every day. Instead of using your hands, encourage her to play with toys.
  • Offer her a variety of toys. Also experiment with different toys to see which she likes best. Try toys she can chase like those with feathers or danglers. Cats also enjoy toys they can bat at, like fake mice.
  • Help your cat avoid boredom and give her new items to investigate as well, like cardboard boxes, paper bags, etc.
  • If your cat pounces on your feet or ankles as you walk by, get her to focus on toys instead. Carry toys with you and toss them at her before she pounces on you.
  • If your cat doesn’t have a feline playmate, consider adopting another playful cat.
  • Develop the indoor play area for your cat. Get her posts for scratching, shelves perching, high areas for climbing and a window ledge for visual stimulation.

If your cat does play rough, give her a time out. Leave the room or put her in another room for some quiet time. You can also interrupt rough play by clapping your hands to startle her or by spraying her with a water bottle.

Once you teach your cat that hands aren’t toys, you’ll have far more enjoyable play sessions. For cat toy suggestions, visit Pet Supermarket.

Your Tank Check Cheat Sheet

May 22nd, 2012

Remember the feeling you had when you first got your fish tank? You were excited about your new pets, very attentive to their needs and checked the tank often. But like a new pool owner, you’ve slowly let more time lapse between water tests and tank maintenance has become a chore. Does this sound like you? Use this cheat sheet to get back on track with your tank checks.

First, make sure you know the ideal water temperature and chemistry for your tank. Temperature and other levels may vary, depending on the tank size, amount and type of fish and whether or not you’re breeding fish.

Testing kits
If you don’t yet have a water testing kit, getting one should be your next step. There are two types of kits: those with test strips and reagent kits with liquid drops. For the casual fish keeper or hobbyist, test strips are fine. They’re easier to use, but they do provide less information. (They’ll tell you if there is or isn’t ammonia, but won’t give you a number.) Reagent kits take more time and are a bit more costly, but will give you more detailed information. Another option is to take a sample of your tank water to Pet Supermarket for a free water test.

Daily checks
Your daily check is just a short look to make sure everything is in order.

  • Check for tank leaks
  • Check the water temperature (You should know the ideal temp for your tank)
  • Look at the water level
  • Review your fish for any signs of parasites or illness

Weekly or biweekly checks
Weekly checks will require your testing kit. If you have a new aquarium, it’s especially important to test water frequently. A more established tank can be tested biweekly, as long as the tested levels are in comfortable ranges.

  • Test for changes in pH, the most frequent cause of fish stress. Most freshwater fish prefer a pH between 5.5 and 7.5. Saltwater fish prefer a pH of 8.0 or above. Learn the appropriate pH for your fish.
  • Ammonia is highly toxic to fish. Test for it at the same time as pH and especially after setting up a new tank or after a fish death or illness. The level should be zero, but ammonia rises as the pH rises above 7.0. Switch to daily testing if ammonia rises.
  • You should have zero nitrites, which can be as toxic as ammonia.
  • Nitrates can rise over time and stress fish. Keep levels below 50ppm, ideally 25 ppm or less.
  • Check for phosphates, which can lead to algae. Keep it to .05 pmm or less. At 1.0 ppm or higher conditions become ripe for algae growth.

Consistent tank checks and partial water changes are the keys to maintaining an aquarium with thriving fish. For more help with water tests and water testing kits, stop by your nearest Pet Supermarket.

A Rabbit Diet for Healthy Hopping

April 5th, 2012

In the wild, rabbits spend their days eating grass and other greens. At home, rabbits depend on us for a proper diet. Making sure they get enough water and fiber is important not only for their digestive health, but also for their continuously growing teeth. Keep reading for top tips to a healthy rabbit diet.

Hay for High Fiber
Hay is vital to a rabbit’s diet and should be available at all times. It provides roughage (fiber) and can prevent serious health issues, as well as obesity. There are two basic types of hay: legume hay and grass hay. Legume hay (alfalfa or clover) is tastier for rabbits, but should be used in moderation as it’s too rich in calories, protein and calcium. Instead, offer grass hay (timothy, meadow, oat, rye, barley, or Bermuda) which offers needed nutrients, but is lower in calories. Peter’s Rabbit Meadow Mix and Timothy Hay are two examples of grass hay we carry.

Pellets for Nutrients
Pellet food adds some of the nutrients, vitamins and minerals that may be missed with a diet of hay and fresh foods. Since it’s not the main ingredient of their diet, ¼ cup of pellet food per five pounds of rabbit body weight should be enough to keep your rabbit healthy. Foods with dried fruit or seeds have more sugar and should be avoided or used as occasional treats.

Vegetables for Variety
Vegetables are another source of high fiber with all of the benefits of hay, but with more micronutrients and water. Healthy greens include broccoli, dark leaf lettuce, kale, parsley, carrots, endive, escarole, dill, basil, mint, cilantro, spinach and tomato. They help your rabbit consume more water and keep its gastrointestinal tract, kidney and bladder function healthy. Make sure to wash all vegetables first. Also, avoid corn which is not easily digested and can be harmful to rabbits.

Water for Health
Water is vital for hydration and proper digestion. Give your rabbit fresh water every day and clean the bowl or bottle often to avoid bacterial growth. If your rabbit eats plenty of greens, he may not need as much water.

Keep your bunny in top hopping condition with a healthy rabbit diet!

Kitty Hydration Tips

April 5th, 2012

Is your cat drinking enough water? Depending on her weight and diet, your cat should be drinking two to four ounces a day.

If your cat is a picky kitty, you may need to try a few things to keep her properly hydrated. To encourage water drinking, follow these tips…

Sparkling Clean H20

  • Refresh your cat’s water every day. Water that sits for a few days can get stale or contaminated.
  • Offer filtered water rather than tap water, which has minerals and chlorine.
  • If your cat eats dry food, make sure fresh water is always available. Don’t add water to her food though. It could lead to spoilage.
  • If your cat is on a wet-food diet, she will need less water, but feel free to add a little to her food bowl.
  • Refill her water to the same level daily. This will make it easier to notice any changes in her water intake.

Water Bowl Protocol

  • Wash her water bowl often and rinse all traces of dish soap, which can burn her tongue.
  • Your cat might not like having her water close to her food source. In this case, a double feeder bowl with food and water next to each other would be a turn off. Try separate bowls instead.
  • Glass or stainless steel bowls are preferable as plastic may leave an unpleasant taste.
  • Some cats don’t like their whiskers touching the sides of the bowl when they drink. Give her more room with a wide, shallow bowl.
  • If your cat prefers to drink running water, get her a water fountain. A water fountain can provide a continuous flow of fresh, filtered water for your cat. It could be a source of water and play!

Keep the fresh water flowing for a healthy cat and be sure to monitor her water intake. If she drinks more or less than normal, she should see a vet to be checked for health issues.

Training Your Dog Leash Manners

April 5th, 2012

It’s a challenge to teach your dog not to pull on his leash when he’s busy exploring the sights, sounds and smells of the outdoors. But it’s possible with consistent training.

The next time Fido pulls ahead to explore, use these techniques to teach him leash manners.

Method 1: Stop and Go

  • When your dog starts to pull, stop walking and wait.
  • When he stops, praise him then move on.
  • Repeat this every time he pulls on the leash and he’ll eventually learn that pulling will keep him from walking.

Method 2: About Face

  • With this method, your dog’s pulling will have you making an about face.
  • When your dog starts pulling, turn around and walk back from where you came. Let the leash check your dog (gently).
  • As your pooch hurries to catch up with you, praise him.
  • Once he catches up, turn again and continue walking in the direction you were walking before.
  • If he pulls again, turn around and repeat the action. Teach your dog that pulling will have him checked by the leash and will keep him from heading where he wants to go.

Bring out the toys

It may seem contradictory, but exercising your dog before the training walk will help. He’ll be less likely to pull if he isn’t ready to run and full of energy. Overall, keep training sessions short and fun. And remember, consistency is key.

Collar or Harness? The Benefits of Both

March 8th, 2012

Is a collar or harness better for walking your dog? Despite what you may have seen on TV or on other dogs in the neighborhood, the decision depends on your dog’s training and your goals.

Do you want to train your dog to stop pulling or is he already trained? Is your dog’s breed known for having issues with the spinal column or trachea? Read on for options and tips.

Content with Collars
The most common recommended collars are traditional buckle or snap collars, break-away collars and head collars. (Choke chains and prong collars are best used by owners with dog-training experience.)

The traditional buckle or snap collar is a good everyday collar to hold ID tags. It’s also acceptable for walking your dog on a leash, but consider first if your dog is trained to walk without pulling or if the breed has a potential medical condition.

Benefits of a collar

  • Fits your dog’s neck exactly.
  • Fairly inexpensive.
  • Can be worn all the time.
  • Can be used to hold ID tags or rabies tags.
  • Safe for most dogs, except small breeds or those with spinal/tracheal issues.

Collar considerations

  • Your dog might outgrow it and need a new one.
  • It might get caught on something. (Breakaway collars allow a quick release.)
  • It won’t curb your dog’s leash pulling without training.
  • Not appropriate for walking dogs that are predisposed to…
  • Wobbler syndrome (Doberman pinschers, Great Danes and other breeds)
  • Spinal cord disorders or Chiari malformation (Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and other toy breeds)
  • Slipped discs in the spinal column (Dachshunds, French bulldogs)
  • Hydrocephalus or water on the brain (toy breeds and dogs with shortened heads)
  • Collapsible trachea (Yorkshire terriers and other small breeds)

For big dogs who pull on their leashes, a head collar or head halter is a safe option for training. Similar to a horse halter, it fits over the dog’s head and helps you lead the direction of his forward movement. Although it’s often mistaken for a muzzle, it isn’t. Your dog can still open his mouth, bark and drink. It shouldn’t be used with a retractable leash however, as it may jerk the dog’s head.

Happy with harnesses
You and your dog may be just as happy with a harness for walking. Since it doesn’t apply pressure on the neck or against the trachea, it’s a good option for many dogs, especially puppies, small dogs and toy breeds. While a regular harness is not considered the best choice for training and may even increase leash pulling, a front-clip harness can help in that area as well.

Benefits of a harness

  • Safe for dogs predisposed to medical conditions or spinal/tracheal issues.
  • Comfortable for most dogs.
  • Appropriate for small dogs.

Harness considerations
Keep in mind that if your dog isn’t trained to walk without pulling, a regular harness won’t help and may even increase the problem. One option for training is a front-clip harness or no-pull harness. Because they clip in front and restrict full extension of the front legs, they’re designed to discourage pulling. This a short-term training tool, however. Once your dog is trained, switch to a regular harness or collar.

For more advice or to check the fit on a dog collar or harness, visit your local store and ask an associate for help.

Hairball Madness: Controlling & Avoiding Hairballs

March 8th, 2012

Playing and cuddling are among the joys of owning a cat. Dealing with hairballs? Not so much. While hairballs aren’t exactly fun, they’re a normal occurrence for most cats. Your cat will have them less often though if you follow these tips.

Avoid or reduce hairballs with:

Diet
Cats with frequent hairballs often benefit from special-needs cat food with hairball control. The formula includes fiber to help reduce the shape and regularity of hairballs.

Regular grooming
Whether your cat has short or long hair, it’s important to groom her regularly. Combing and bathing her will reduce the amount of hair she ingests and cut down the buildup in her stomach and intestines.

Fiber supplements
Fiber is known to help clean the intestinal lining and aid in passing hair in the stool. It’s sold in chewable treats, capsules or powder.

Hairball remedies
A variety of cat hairball remedies help eliminate or prevent hairballs. They aid with digestion and include gels, lubricants and even cat grass.

Think of reducing hairballs as a way to increase kitty cuddle time! Visit PetSupermarket.com or your local store for cat supplies and more help.

What you should know about feeding your ferret

March 8th, 2012

Love ferrets? To keep your ferret his normal, playful self, make sure you’re meeting his dietetic and nutritional needs. Here are a few facts about feeding your ferret:

  • As carnivores who can’t absorb nutrition from vegetation, ferrets need a diet high in animal protein, high in fat and low in fiber.
  • It’s important to include high-quality animal protein in a ferret’s diet. A premium ferret food is recommended.
  • Ferrets digest and metabolize food quickly and so should eat small meals often. Think of them as small athletes who need 7 to 10 meals a day. For this reason, make sure there is constant access to food and fresh water.
  • Dry food is best as it can be left out all day. Use canned food or meat-based treats as occasional ferret treats or supplements.
  • These active, mischievous creatures like to tip things over. Be sure to use a heavy or weighted food bowl and a water bottle attached to the cage.

Keep your ferret healthy and active with a safe diet and loving attention!

Know Your Dog’s Body Language

February 11th, 2012

When you think of a happy dog, you might imagine one with his tail wagging. But a wagging tail isn’t always a sign of canine happiness. It could also be a sign of nervousness or aggression.

Your dog’s body language offers various clues as to whether or not he’s comfortable with a situation. By learning some of these often subtle signs, you can react when your dog is feeling fearful or aggressive.

Signs of a happy dog

These are the signs of a dog that is happy and relaxed:

  • His eyes have their normal shape and look soft, with no whites showing.
  • His body is loose with a wagging tail or he’s wiggling all over.
  • His mouth is closed or slightly open and relaxed. The corners of his mouth might be turned up slightly.
  • His ears are in their neutral, natural position or up. Mild curiosity might have his ears perking forward.

Get to know your dog’s signs

Your dog’s signs might vary slightly, as each breed has different neutral positions for tails and ears. For example, an Akita might hold his tail higher than a Greyhound or a Collie. Get to know your dog’s natural body language and it’ll be easy to notice when he’s suddenly tense or fearful.

Signs of discomfort or distress

These signs are often signals of discomfort, nervousness or distress:

  • The body is tense or stiff. His fur might be raised.
  • His tail wags in a way that is stiff and higher or lower than his neutral position.
  • His eyes are rounder with whites showing.
  • He avoids eye contact or looks away from something that bothers him.
  • His mouth is closed.
  • His ears are pulled back or lowered.

When you notice these signs, stop to see what’s disturbing your dog and try to move him away or redirect his attention. By learning your dog’s body language, you’ll be able to keep him safe and can react to avoid harmful situations.

What to Expect When Your Cat is Expecting

February 11th, 2012

Is your kitty expecting? As your pregnant cat, or “Queen,” prepares for her little kittens, you should learn what’s ahead. Here are a few facts on what to expect:

  • The average feline pregnancy is 9 weeks or 63 days, but it can range from 57 to 69 days.
  • Weight gain begins after the fourth week. You’ll also see “pinking” or pinker and enlarged nipples after the third week.
  • The litter size can range from 1 to 8 kittens or more. The average is 2 to 5.
  • Nesting behavior is common. Your cat will start exploring closets and secluded places, looking for a place to have her kittens. Help her find a safe room away from children, pets and other activity.
  • Labor can range from minutes to hours or a full day depending on the size of the litter and whether or not the queen has had kittens before.
  • A few signs of impending labor include bigger mammary glands, a drop in the cat’s temperature, a drop in appetite, restlessness, meowing, panting, licking and vomiting. Not all cats show the same signs.
  • It’s important that kittens nurse soon after being born to increase immunity through their mother’s milk.
  • Kittens usually don’t open their eyes until they’re 10 to 14 days old. They typically nurse for 4 to 6 weeks.
  • A queen should eat anything she wants to restore her energy while nursing kittens.
  • Control fleas on the queen as they can cause anemia if they jump on her kittens.

Most cats have a smooth birthing process, but call your vet if there are any signs of distress before or during labor.