Archive for the ‘Small Pet Care’ Category

Cute, Cuddly, and Just for You

Tuesday, July 12th, 2011

Small Size, Big Fun
Whether you’ve just purchased a gerbil, hamster, rabbit, or ferret, we know you’ll soon agree they make great pets. Small animals are playful and fun to watch, so you’ll enjoy learning more about our mammal cousins. Also, they’re easy to care for and don’t require much space, making them ideal for apartments.

Gerbils Make Great Starter Pets
Gerbils make great pets for older children (10 years and up). Here are some reasons why:

  • They can be kept in a small cage, right in your child’s room.
  • They’re small, gentle, and seldom bite.
  • Gerbils don’t require a big investment—the perfect pet for parents on a budget.
  • They’re fun, frisky, and just downright cute!

Variety and More
There are more small animals suitable to be pets than you might think. When was the last time you met someone who owned a chinchilla? That person could be you. Our associates at Pet Supermarket can fill you in on the characteristics of these exotic pets and help you decide which ones are most suited to your lifestyle and compatible with other pets who share your home.

Toys for Two
You’ll enjoy finding toys that encourage your pet to interact with you. There’s more to life than just running on a wheel. Pet Supermarket carries a wide variety of toys for various species, plus premium pet foods that will provide protein and nutrients essential for a glossy coat, bright eyes, and bushy tail.

Our mission at Pet Supermarket is to provide you the food, bedding, toys, and cages to give your new pet a happy and healthy life. We’ll be sending you additional emails in the future with small animal tips and product recommendations. If you have any specific questions, feel free to visit us and ask. We look forward to seeing you soon!

Look Ma, No Odor! Grooming Your Ferret

Wednesday, May 11th, 2011

With a name derived from the word “thief” in Latin, ferrets often act like playful thieves who love hiding things. They’re known for being playful, curious and smart.

They’re also known for having a musky odor, although most ferrets sold in the U.S. are now descented at a young age. They may still have an odor, but if you learn how to groom and care for your ferret, it shouldn’t be an issue. Follow these tips for grooming and odor control to enjoy playtime with your ferret.

  • Bathing your ferret too often will increase the odor as his skin will produce more oil. A bath every 4 to 6 weeks is fine, unless he gets into something dirty.
  • If you do give him a bath, use a shampoo made for ferrets or kittens or a no-tears baby shampoo. (Don’t use dishwashing soap. Also, flea shampoo for dogs or cats can be poisonous to ferrets.)
  • Change your ferret’s litter every day and clean the litter box once a week.
  • Changing or washing the bedding once a week can do more to curb odor than bathing the ferret.
  • Clean his ears with some ear cleaning solution and check for ear mites, which can create wax with a strong odor. This can be treated by your vet.
  • Trim his nails every two weeks, being careful not to cut into the vein or “quick.” Use ferret or cat clippers and have styptic powder handy.
  • Dental issues for ferrets are similar to those of dogs and cats. Have his teeth and gums checked by a vet and try to brush his teeth weekly.
  • What kind of food is he eating? Food with fish ingredients may cause more odor.

It may take a little time for your ferret to get used to a grooming routine, but consistency and careful handling can go a long way. Visit your local Pet Supermarket for more information about ferret care or ferret supplies.

Those Rascally Rabbit Instincts

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011

Chewing, digging, burrowing and throwing may sound like the actions of a dog, but they’re all rabbit. Learning about these instincts will help you understand your rabbit and a few of his favorite things…

Digging
Much bunny destruction is caused by digging. Introduce him to untreated grass mats and tunnels instead. They’ll make good substitutes for your rugs, carpet and lawn.

Burrowing
Rabbits are natural burrowers and live in underground burrows in the wild. Given a chance, your rabbit will try to recreate that habitat in your home or garden. Show him instead the comfort of human-made tunnels, tubes and nesting dens.

Chewing
With constantly growing teeth, it’s no wonder rabbits like to chew constantly. It keeps tooth growth in check. Chewing on carpet fibers, electrical cords and certain plants can lead to bunny pain however. Offer him any kind of small animal chew instead.

Throwing
It’s not commonly known, but many rabbits like to throw or toss things as a form of play or getting attention. Rather than playing toss with the food bowl, how about playing with a Toss ‘N Chew Celery or a Flip ‘N Toss Carrot? These and others toys are perfect for toss-playing bunnies.

Just remember, the more your bunny has to chew, dig and throw, the less likely he is to get into trouble around the house!

Visit Pet Supermarket for chewable and throwable items for your bunny.

How to Pick Up a Rabbit

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011

Bunnies look like they were made for holding and cuddling. Unfortunately, not all bunnies enjoy being picked up and they can hurt themselves by resisting your hold. Learn the proper technique for picking up a rabbit and you’ll not only train her to enjoy cuddle time, you’ll also learn how to protect her fragile body.

The lift

Start out by approaching a medium or large rabbit from behind. Pet her with one hand and slide your other hand under her chest. She’ll be most nervous when she’s in midair, so get close to minimize air time and prepare to lift. As you lift her with one hand under her chest, slide the other hand under her hindquarters and hold her against you. Her left or right side should be against your midsection. This will help her feel secure.

Small rabbits can be approached from the front. With one hand under her chest and the other under her hindquarters, lift and hold her against you. It may help to let her rest her front paws on your chest.

The landing

When putting her down, the greatest risk is that she’ll see the ground coming and will try to jump down. A high jump can break her backbone, so make sure to squat down before releasing her. You could also try covering her eyes just before release so she doesn’t see the ground coming and try to escape.

Repeat daily

Practice picking up your rabbit once or twice a day. Make it a positive experience and give her a treat afterwards. Otherwise, if she’s only picked up for vet visits or nail clipping, she’ll work harder to avoid you.

Don’ts

Don’t lift a rabbit by the ears or scruff of the neck. Rabbit ears are easily damaged and a rabbit’s skeleton and backbone are fragile. If she tries to get away, don’t grab her legs as they may break if she struggles. Make the most of your bunny cuddle time with toys and rabbit-care products from Pet Supermarket.

The Truth about Guinea Pigs (Spy Gear Not Included)

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Children and families around the country have been enjoying a funny new adventure about guinea pig espionage agents. But since the movie and now the DVD have been released, rescue groups nationwide are on alert for the “101 Dalmatians effect” of abandoned animals.

Everyone expects misconceptions in a movie about spy animals. But while you know guinea pigs can’t talk, parachute or use spy gear, did you know they can’t climb or run in spinning balls? They’re actually pretty fragile.

Unlike the movie characters, real guinea pigs:

  • Can’t run in balls or wheels made for hamsters – Guinea pigs don’t have flexible backs.
  • Don’t jump – A fall from a sofa or high area can paralyze them.
  • Aren’t hardy – They have delicate digestive systems and can get sick easily if not monitored.
  • Startle easily – A frightened guinea pig will often freeze.

With the movie now available on DVD, more families will see it and may even consider buying a guinea pig. But these animals, while cute and cuddly, aren’t really appropriate for young children.

If you know what guinea pigs are really like or own one, take a look at Pet Supermarket’s selection of supplies for these gentle pets.

How to Handle Playful Ferrets

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Playful, inquisitive and smart, ferrets are entertaining to watch and are much loved by their owners. Learning how to handle a ferret’s long, agile body in different situations is important. Here’s how:

At Home:

  • Place your hand under his chest to support his upper body. Use your other hand to support his hind end.
  • Never hold a ferret by his head, legs or tail.

When Introducing Him to Strangers:

  • If you’re not sure how your ferret will react to strangers (or how they will react to him), it’s best to cradle your ferret with one hand and arm, leaving the other free to protect him. Hold him firmly with your hand under his chest and the rest of his body lying along your arm. He might wrap his legs around your forearm for stability.
  • Hold him facing towards you or away from you, depending on his comfort level with strangers.

“Scruffing” for Grooming or Disciplining:

  • In the wild, a female ferret may hold her young by the scruff of the neck to discipline them. The same technique can be used at home or at the vet’s.
  • Use your thumb and first two fingers to grasp the loose skin at the back of the ferret’s neck right below his head. Hold him firmly, but gently.
  • When held this way, ferrets will usually relax, go limp and may even yawn. It is a familiar position to them and isn’t painful.
  • Scruffing will allow you to safely groom the ferret, clip his nails or brush his teeth.
  • Don’t hold one by the scruff for long without supporting his hind quarters.
  • Scruffing should not be used during litter training, after fear biting or with previously abused ferrets.

Ferrets can be quite mischievous, so handling one properly will ensure his safety and that of others. For a broad variety of ferret supplies, visit a Pet Supermarket near you.

Ferrets Sleep Like Babies

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Ferrets love to sleep. That’s not an overstatement. A normal ferret sleeps between 15 to 18 hours a day! Ferrets are naturally crepuscular, meaning they are most active during dusk and dawn. In the wild, ferrets spend most of their time in dens or underground lairs to avoid predation. Ferrets sleep more than most animals, but when awake they are very active.

For the few hours your ferret is up, it’s important to provide him with plenty of healthy food and activity. Below are safe ways to keep your ferret active and healthy:

  • Hide and Seek: Ferrets are natural detectives. If you let them they will search through every inch of your home. To keep your ferret active and interested, hide his favorite toy in different places.
  • Vary: It’s important for healthy growth to keep your ferret stimulated with different challenges. Always have different kinds of toys and activities available.
  • Rearrange: An easy way to energize your ferret’s environment is to continually rearrange the toys and accessories in her cage. Every time you clean her cage, take to opportunity to move the “furniture” around.

The wellbeing of your curious and intelligent ferret depends on a healthy diet, mental stimulation and exercise. At Pet Supermarket we carry everything from cages and treats to grooming aids and accessories to keep your ferret happy and healthy.

Most Common Rabbit Aliments

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Rabbits make great pets and to keep them healthy you must watch for signs of disease that can affect your furry friend.

Top 3 Rabbit Ailments:

  • Heat Stroke – Rabbits get over heated at 85 degrees, this is of special concern in the summer months. To prevent this, keep fresh water available and ventilation flowing.
  • Dental Malocclusion – Rabbits teeth grow throughout their lives. To keep teeth from overgrowing, a good wood chew block will help keep teeth at normal lengths.
  • Obesity – If you cannot find the ribs under the layer of fat and skin, then the rabbit is probably obese. Skip the pellets and give your rabbit a constant free supply of timothy hay and leafy greens that will help reduce the excess weight.

The most common rabbit illnesses can be avoided by securing a proper diet, keeping the cages clean and dry and making sure that the food and water receptacles are replenished daily.

At Pet Supermarket we offer a variety of great books that discuss proper rabbit care. We want to make sure that our customers know what to expect with their new pets and how to properly care for them.

The Best Foods For Your Rabbit

Friday, February 11th, 2011

Rabbits need a wide and varied nutritional plan to grow strong and healthy.

The best foods for rabbits are:

  • Pellets- nutritious pelleted foods formulated specifically for rabbits serve as a good overall meal.
  • Timothy hay- Rich in fiber, Timothy hay helps the rabbit avoid problems like hairballs and diarrhea.
  • Alfalfa- Very high in calories, protein and calcium, alfalfa should only be given to adult rabbits in small quantities or a as a treat.
  • Dark green vegetables: Rabbits should balance their diet with vegetables like parsley, spinach, carrot tops and broccoli leaves and stems for a long and healthy life.

Keep in mind that older rabbits need to have their meals portioned; they will eat almost all that you serve them and with all this food, fresh water must be available at all times.

At Pet Supermarket, we have everything you’ll need to keep your rabbit hopping strong. We carry a large selection of pelleted foods, cages, treats and water bottles. Visit your local Pet Supermarket today!

The “Houdini” Hamster

Thursday, February 10th, 2011

That’s right-hamsters can be quite the little escape artists. If your hamster has pulled a “Houdini” and escaped, here are some tips on finding him:

  • First, leave his cage open. Hamsters will sometimes return to their cages on their own. In the meantime, check everywhere you think your hamster could have set up a hiding place. Look behind and under furniture, bookcases, beds and appliances; include cabinets, drawers, and shelves in your search. Check any open boxes, including tissue boxes, and look in backpacks, shoes, and bags as well.
  • Hamsters are nocturnal, so they’ll most likely be active overnight. You can track your hamster’s movements by placing a small, pre-counted pile of seeds on the floor of each room, and then check to see which piles have seeds missing to determine your hamster’s location. Sprinkling a small amount of cornstarch or flour around the seeds can also help you follow the footprints to where your hamster may be hiding. Once you’ve narrowed it down, then you may have to set a trap in order to catch him. Place his open cage (with fresh food and water) on the floor close to where you think he may be; hamsters are usually happy to be home, but you may have to stay up a little late in order to close the door on the cage once he’s returned.

Hamsters can manage quite well for a few days, so be patient-he’ll most likely show up on his own. Pet Supermarket has a large selection of small animal supplies, including cages, seeds, waterers, toys, and exercisers. Visit us today to create a habitat that your hamster will (hopefully) never want to leave!