Archive for the ‘Fish Care’ Category

Top Fish-Feeding Mistakes

Tuesday, March 12th, 2013

Are you sure you’re feeding your fish correctly? Whether you’re a new aquarist learning the ropes or an experienced one in need of a reminder, read on for a few top fish-feeding mistakes.

1. Overfeeding

The number one mistake made by fish owners is overfeeding. Since fish will never turn down food, they always seem hungry, but this doesn’t mean they need feeding. Start by feeding your fish once a day. Don’t worry. Feeding them once a day won’t starve your fish.

2. Feeding the tank rather than the fish

Many think a bigger tank means more food, but that isn’t the case. Only feed your fish the amount they can consume within three to five minutes. Once they let food float to the bottom, it’s time to stop. Remember, any food that isn’t eaten decomposes and this decay leads to cloudy water, algae growth and high ammonia levels.

3. Not having a feeding schedule

Is more than one person caring for the aquarium? If so, everyone should be aware of the feeding schedule to avoid accidental overfeeding.

4. Not learning the dietary requirements of your fish

A diverse community of fish make for a beautiful aquarium, but to maintain that diversity, you should learn the feeding requirements of each fish species. Some fish may need or prefer flakes, while others will need pellets. It’s important you know which is best for proper nutrition.

5. Not choosing high-quality food

It’s also important to provide high-quality fish food. Food that is low in quality, stale or inappropriate for that species may cause harm or add to the food waste in your tank.

6. Not testing the water regularly

Testing the water is a vital factor that can also affect feeding. How? As we mentioned earlier, uneaten food waste degrades water quality. If the ammonia and nitrate levels are off, you can adjust feeding or withhold food for a few days until those levels stabilize. You won’t know it’s needed though unless you test.

We hope these tips will help you avoid the most common feeding mistakes. If you need help choosing quality fish food, speak with your Pet Supermarket associate.

First Fish for the Beginning Aquarist

Wednesday, February 6th, 2013

You’ve got your new tank filled and ready for fish. But what kinds of fish should you get?

If you’re a beginner, there are many fish that are easy to care for and fun to watch.

This list of beginner-friendly fish can get you started:

Cherry Barb
The Cherry Barb is a community fish that can add activity to your aquarium. They can grow up to 2 inches and do best when they’re kept in a school of 6 or more. Make sure to provide plants or hiding places.

Dwarf Gourami
Originally from the waters of India, these colorful fish are both peaceful and hardy. They can reach 3 inches and are suited for tanks of 20 gallons or more. It may be best to keep only one per tank as they can get territorial with others of the same species.

Guppy
Another hardy fish, guppies are peaceful and easy to care for. They’re also very prolific, so if you mix male and female fish, you’re likely to have baby guppies, which need to be safeguarded from the other fish. Male guppies are more colorful with larger tails.

Platy
Platies are easy to care for and come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. They’re also fun to watch, because they’re active fish and are livebearers. This means their babies can swim immediately after being birthed.

Pleco
Plecos are known for their algae-eating skills and can help keep your aquarium clean. They graze along the bottom and sides of the aquarium and should only be added after a tank has been established and has some algae.

White Clouds
These small fish are idea for small tanks. Not only are they very peaceful, even in close quarters, they also tolerate the temperature swings of small tanks fairly well.

Zebra Danio
These small, hardy fish do well in different water conditions and add color with their horizontal stripes. They’re active community fish and should be kept in schools of 6 or more.

While this list can help you get started, remember to check the size, temperature requirements and compatibility issues of any fish you add to your tank!

Introducing New Fish into Your Aquarium

Tuesday, November 20th, 2012

Have you ever moved to an area with a different climate? It might have taken you a while to get acclimated. The same holds true for fish when moving to a new aquarium. In fact, fish are very sensitive to their environments. Subtle changes in water temperature, pH and nitrates can affect your fish’s health and survival.

New additions to your tank can also affect your existing fish. To keep your aquarium healthy, we offer the following suggestions:

  • Research the new fish species – Is it compatible with your existing fish? How large will it grow? These are things you should know about any species you add to your tank.
  • Fish quarantine – One of the cardinal rules of fishkeeping is to quarantine new fish before adding them to an aquarium. Otherwise, you risk introducing a parasite or disease that could infect all of your fish.
  • Quarantine tank – A small 10- to 20-gallon tank with a basic setup is sufficient. Include a sponge filter, fluorescent lighting, a heater and plastic plants that will offer a few hiding places. It’s a little extra work, but this investment will protect your main aquarium in the long run.
  • Quarantine process – Fish should spend two to three weeks in quarantine before being transferred to the main tank. During this time, you should watch closely to make sure the new fish aren’t carrying parasites or diseases.
  • Test water quality of your main tank – When the new fish are ready for your tank, they should be transferred into water with the least stressful conditions. This means the chlorine level should be at zero and the pH and other levels should match those of the water holding your new fish.
  • Check the neighborhood first – Make sure your aquarium has plenty of hiding spaces for the new fish. Also, feed your existing fish so they’re less aggressive. Keep in mind, your current fish may still harass a new tankmate. To combat this, try to add more than one new fish at a time or rearrange tank decorations first to distract your current fish into establishing new territories.
  • Adding the fish – When adding the new fish from the quarantine tank or Pet Supermarket, first dim the lights in the tank and your room, then float the sealed bag with the new fish on the water’s surface. Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to adjust in temperature. Then open the bag and add half a cup of aquarium water to it. Reseal it and let it float. Add half a cup every 5 minutes. Once the bag is full, use a net to transfer the fish to your tank (don’t add the water from the bag into your tank). Keep your tank light off as your new fish explores his surroundings.

Watch your fish for signs of illness or aggression and enjoy the beauty of a thriving aquarium with different species! For advice on compatible fish species and aquarium accessories, visit your local Pet Supermarket.

When You Should Upgrade to a New Fish Tank

Friday, October 12th, 2012

You’ve cared for your fish tank and it has blossomed in to a beautiful aquatic exhibit. You’ve added fish, plants and decorations to your aquarium over the years, but how do you know when it’s time to upgrade to a bigger tank? Read on for a few guidelines…

Having problems with water quality?
Has it been hard to maintain safe levels of pH, ammonia, nitrates and nitrites? If so, a larger tank may help. Water quality and temperature are easier to maintain in larger tanks. These levels don’t spike as quickly in tanks with more water volume.

Crowded fish
Are there too many fish in your tank? And how many is too many? The rule most often used is one inch of fish for every gallon of water, but this doesn’t provide enough room for larger fish and full-bodied fish, like goldfish. If you have larger fish or if they’ve grown, you may want to adapt that rule to one inch of fish for every two or three gallons of water. Also, smaller fish tend to be more active and may be happier with more room as well.

Want to include live plants?
Live plants provide a natural habitat for fish, but like any live addition to your tank, they will affect water chemistry. While they can help inhibit algae and offer benefits, they can also cause waste from decayed plant matter. For a healthy, vibrant ecosystem with live plants, a bigger aquarium is recommended.

Need more help making your decision? Get personalized help deciding or choosing fish tanks at your local Pet Supermarket.

Aquatic Plants for Beginners

Wednesday, August 15th, 2012

Watching sea life in an aquarium is a peaceful pastime for fish owners everywhere. Aquatic plants can enhance the beauty and health of that environment we love to watch so much.

There are benefits to adding aquatic plants to your tank:

  • They provide natural filtration by lowering nitrate levels.
  • They use nutrients that normally feed algae growth, helping to reduce algae.
  • Plants provide hiding spaces for shy species (bettas, loaches, cory cats, etc.).
  • They add to the beauty and health of your aquarium.

Consider adding live plants to your aquarium. We’ll get you started with a beginner’s list below.

The best plant species for beginners

These plants require low light, and are very hardy in that they thrive in different water conditions (acidic, alkaline, soft, hard, etc.).

  • Cryptocorne wendtii – Also called Bronze Wendtii, this low and bushy plant has variegated leaves. Colors range from green to bronze. It prefers deep substrate.
  • Echinodorus bleheri – Commonly known as an Amazon Sword. This species can get very large and should be planted in a 20 gallon high aquarium. It also does well in terrarium situations.
  • Echinodorus ocelatus – The Ozelot Sword has leaves that get multi-tonal brown spots as the plant matures. Some leaves will have a rich red tone. It doesn’t get as tall as others, making it a perfect mid-ground plant.
  • Echinodorus barthii – The Red Melon Sword has pretty reddish oval leaves and can be used as a mid-ground or background plant.
  • Echinodorus cordifolius – The Radican Sword features spade-shaped leaves and does best in a planted tank that has a rich substrate. This can be achieved with a tablet fertilizer.
  • Anubias nana – This plant is slow growing and should be anchored to an ornament or piece of driftwood for best results, as its roots are very shallow. Can be used as a foreground or mid-ground plant.
  • Microsorum pteropus – The Java Fern will creep across the aquarium as it grows, attaching itself to driftwood or ornaments. It does best in tanks with low light levels.
  • Chladophora aegagropila – These Moss Balls are actually slow growing filamentous algae, which can improve filtration in your tank. They may even inhibit growth of other types of algae.

For help with choosing the best plants for your aquarium, visit Pet Supermarket and speak with a store associate.

Got Algae? These Fish Will Eat the Algae in Your Tank

Tuesday, July 10th, 2012

Algae… it’s persistent, pervasive and can blanket an aquarium in green growth. While some algal growth is normal, it’s important to reach a healthy balance in your tank’s ecosystem. One way to reach this balance is with algae-eating fish.

These freshwater fish are good algae eaters:

Plecos – A type of suckermouth catfish, plecos are among the best algae eaters. While common plecos are popular, they’re best used in very large aquariums as they can grow up to two feet. For the home aquarium, better choices include the bushynose pleco and the bristlenose pleco, which eat all types of algae and reach a maximum of four to six inches.

Pygmy Suckermouth – The pygmy suckermouth or Otocinclus resembles the pleco, but is smaller (up to two inches). They do well in aquariums with plants as their size allows them to eat algae off small leaves. “Otos” are a schooling fish however and should be kept in groups of three or more.

Siamese Algae Eater – A member of the cyprinid or carp family, Siamese algae eaters consume a lot of algae, unlike Chinese algae eaters, which eat less algae as they grow. Maximum length is four or five inches. Don’t keep two of this type as they can get territorial with their own kind.

Florida Flagfish – This native flagfish can grow to two and a half inches and can eat the brush or beard algae ignored by other algae eaters. Make sure it can get along with the other fish in your tank. Tips to keep in mind…

  • Some algae-eating fish will only eat certain types of algae.
  • If your fish have eaten all the algae, there’s a possibility they could starve. Use algae tablets or vegetables as supplements.
  • You can’t depend on fish to clean your tank of all algae. Fish can have favorite eating spots in your tank, leaving algae growing in other areas.

These fish can help with algae, but don’t consider them a solution to combating the problem. You should still pay attention to algal growth and keep your tank clean.

Your Tank Check Cheat Sheet

Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012

Remember the feeling you had when you first got your fish tank? You were excited about your new pets, very attentive to their needs and checked the tank often. But like a new pool owner, you’ve slowly let more time lapse between water tests and tank maintenance has become a chore. Does this sound like you? Use this cheat sheet to get back on track with your tank checks.

First, make sure you know the ideal water temperature and chemistry for your tank. Temperature and other levels may vary, depending on the tank size, amount and type of fish and whether or not you’re breeding fish.

Testing kits
If you don’t yet have a water testing kit, getting one should be your next step. There are two types of kits: those with test strips and reagent kits with liquid drops. For the casual fish keeper or hobbyist, test strips are fine. They’re easier to use, but they do provide less information. (They’ll tell you if there is or isn’t ammonia, but won’t give you a number.) Reagent kits take more time and are a bit more costly, but will give you more detailed information. Another option is to take a sample of your tank water to Pet Supermarket for a free water test.

Daily checks
Your daily check is just a short look to make sure everything is in order.

  • Check for tank leaks
  • Check the water temperature (You should know the ideal temp for your tank)
  • Look at the water level
  • Review your fish for any signs of parasites or illness

Weekly or biweekly checks
Weekly checks will require your testing kit. If you have a new aquarium, it’s especially important to test water frequently. A more established tank can be tested biweekly, as long as the tested levels are in comfortable ranges.

  • Test for changes in pH, the most frequent cause of fish stress. Most freshwater fish prefer a pH between 5.5 and 7.5. Saltwater fish prefer a pH of 8.0 or above. Learn the appropriate pH for your fish.
  • Ammonia is highly toxic to fish. Test for it at the same time as pH and especially after setting up a new tank or after a fish death or illness. The level should be zero, but ammonia rises as the pH rises above 7.0. Switch to daily testing if ammonia rises.
  • You should have zero nitrites, which can be as toxic as ammonia.
  • Nitrates can rise over time and stress fish. Keep levels below 50ppm, ideally 25 ppm or less.
  • Check for phosphates, which can lead to algae. Keep it to .05 pmm or less. At 1.0 ppm or higher conditions become ripe for algae growth.

Consistent tank checks and partial water changes are the keys to maintaining an aquarium with thriving fish. For more help with water tests and water testing kits, stop by your nearest Pet Supermarket.

How to net and catch your aquarium fish

Saturday, February 11th, 2012

Catching fish in an aquarium may seem like an easy task, but even the most sedate fish can swim like bolts of lightning when avoiding a net. Doing this in a tank with plants and accessories could also leave you with damaged plants and spooked fish.

There are a few techniques and tools that will help you catch fish without disturbing your aquarium.

Catching fish with two nets
The easiest approach is to use two fish nets, using one to herd fish into the other. Choose two nets based on the size of your fish and your tank. You could also use one small fish net to herd fish into a larger fish net. Keep in mind that nets with coarse netting move faster in water, but nets of fine mesh are less likely to snag fins.

Using food as bait
Have your net ready while you lure your fish to the surface with food. If you use flake food, wet the flakes and stick them against the glass in a corner near the surface. When your fish are busy eating, use your net to scoop them up from underneath. Do this a few times to get all of your fish.

Lowering the water level
Another method is to lower the water level in the tank to give your fish less room to escape the net. You may need to remove some plants and accessories in this case.

Using a fish trap
A fish trap, isolation tank or breeding unit is also a good tool for capturing fish without causing them stress.

Catching fish shouldn’t be stressful for you or your fish. Have patience as you try different techniques and find the one that works best for you.

Bettas for Beginners

Monday, November 14th, 2011

The beautiful betta introduced many to the joys of owning fish. Because of their ability to survive in low-oxygen water conditions, bettas are hardy fish that can thrive in conditions that would kill other fish. This makes them a good fish for beginners. If you’re a beginner or thinking about buying a fish tank, consider why bettas are a great choice…

  • There are 65 species of betta. The most common is the B. splendens, also known as the Siamese fighting fish.
  • They are tropical fish found in the waters of Southeast Asia, including rice paddies and slow-moving streams.
  • With the proper care, bettas can live up to five years or more.
  • Bettas are meat eaters and need a high-protein diet. Since they have small appetites, feeding once a day is enough.
  • Although bettas can coexist with other fish, male bettas or Siamese fighting fish are very territorial and may react negatively to other fish.
  • Bettas are calm water fish and should be kept in a tank with a filter that won’t produce too much current, making it harder for them to swim.
  • You may have seen a betta vase-a vase in which a betta lives under and among the roots of a plant in water. These vases have become popular and may seem attractive, but they’re not the best environment for any type of fish.

Feed Your Child’s Interest in Aquariums

Wednesday, August 17th, 2011

Is your child interested in fish or aquariums? Encourage his or her curiosity with fish-related activities both online and off…

Create a crafty fish aquarium
Toddlers or young children who like crafts will enjoy making a paper-plate aquarium, a berry box aquarium or papier mache fish.

Read about fish
Reading books and stories about fish will help kids learn more about these aquatic animals. See the top fish books for kids ranging from 2 to 12.

Play pretend fish owner online
Learn how to feed guppies and play Fish Tycoon with these free online games. The Monterey Bay Aquarium also has an activities page with coloring pages and games.

Play Pocket Fish
If you have an iPhone, let your child play Pocket Fish, a free game where you collect fish and sea animals.

Watch virtual fish aquariums
See video clips of fish aquariums online. Watch an aquarium of fish on with natural sound and see other videos accompanied by music, including a variety of aquarium fish, a 10-gallon tank with goldfish, and a larger tank with tiger barbs and tetras.

See live aquariums
Don’t forget to visit the live fish at your local Pet Supermarket. Our associates will be happy to identify different species and speak to your child about fish.

Buy a small aquarium
Small aquariums and aquarium kits are sized for desktops and small rooms. A small tank of fish will offer enduring entertainment and can add a soothing backdrop to any room. Just remember that the smaller the aquarium, the more maintenance is needed for good water quality.